Paris: Final Thoughts

A few final reflections...
First, about the people...
Several friends and family members asked me if the French rude reputation held true. Based on my experience, I didn't find them rude at all. I definitely do not speak French although I attempted to be polite and use courtesy words like "Bonjour", "S'il vous plait", and "Merci". I believe that helped. Some people were friendly beyond our expectations. I distinctly remember two waitresses translating entire menus for our benefit. One man let me cut the long line at the grocery store when I was only buying a package of plastic knives for our picnic.



There wasn't much of a language barrier, being a large city, most everyone we interacted with spoke English. I asked "Parlez-vous anglais?" many, many times. One funny language thing did occur. I am so programed to say "si" or "yes" in Italian that I said "si" instead of "oui" over and over again, even commenting aloud "Ah! I'm still speaking Italian!" Of course, by the time I was replying correctly with "oui" it was time to leave and switch back to "si".



Next, the transportation....
The metro system is the most efficient and fastest public transportation I have ever used. There was an electronic notice board which posted the number of minutes until the next train. During peak times, trains were never more than 5 minutes apart! We hoped from one side of central Paris to the other, countless times, without much cost or effort.

Finally, values, leisure, and living the good life...
To us, Parisians seem to value self-expression, being outside, food, wine, art, music, and history. They like to eat, drink, and socialize. I think we would fit right in! We also noticed a reoccurring theme through the art and historical sites we visited. And that is this - the French have a revolutionary spirit and attitude. If you don’t like something, do your best to change it or do something different. We like that.





We also like to picnic and so do Parisians! I felt right at home spreading out our blanket and enjoying our packed lunch or dinner among locals doing the exact same thing. There was plenty of green space and breathtaking, world-famous scenery to choose from for the backdrop.



We had a full itinerary! It was slightly museum heavy, but we were determined to utilize our museum passes fully. Even though our days were packed, we left plenty to discover. We loved Paris and can’t wait to return! It’s beautiful. It’s romantic. Believe what everyone tells you, it’s true! Even though it is one expensive place, we have decided that it’s our new favorite city.

Paris: Day 4

August 4, 2009

The Château de Versailles was the first sight on our agenda for the day. We hopped on the train after a quick croissant and coffee. The palace was beyond extravagant. Gold, ornate, and lavish best describe it. My photos could never do it justice, so I only took a few. There is a great slide show here featuring both the exterior and interior of the palace. The photos are beautiful and do a good job of relaying the grandeur.


The crowds of tourists rivaled those at the Louvre and were slightly distracting. After a few long, deep breaths and slowly counting to 10, we managed to focus on our audio tour and stay out of the way of the guided Asian tours. The amount of history involving King Louis XIV and the château is amazing. It started out as a hunting lodge and the King used it to escape from the city life of Paris. Later, the French royal court was moved here and it became both the French monarch and government headquarters. Go here if you're interested in more history. It was moving to walk through the exact same rooms once occupied by the King and his A-list guests. The Hall of Mirrors was spectacular and as well as impressive. I loved how the mirrors and windows were aligned in pairs. I can only imagine what it would have been like at night with tons of candles, full of noblemen and ladies in luxurious dresses instead of tourists in shorts.
We headed back to central Paris and to the Arc de Triomphe, a monument dedicated to French soldiers. We climbed the stairs to the top for the best 360° views of Paris. The Arc sits in the center of a massive round-about with 12 boulevards, lined beautifully with green trees.
It’s just like the movies and it was comical to watch the crazy traffic from both above and at ground level. It’s the only traffic circle that drivers already in the circle yield to those entering. (The opposite is true of all other traffic circles in France.) Here’s a video I shot from the top. If you listen closely, you can hear Michael laughing in the background at the fearless drivers and their maneuvers.

We wandered down the Champs-Elysées, the massive boulevard with high end shopping including the Louis Vuitton flagship store. We popped into a grocery store, picked up some champagne and blackberries, then headed back to the Eiffel Tower for an anniversary champagne toast. We lounged the afternoon away, sipping champagne, with more amazing views of the tower. There was no humidity and a light breeze – it was just perfect. The expression “living in the now” was meant for moments like that.
We then went to the hotel for a few minutes of down time and to freshen up. We grabbed our favorite quick dinner combo: a meat and cheese plate, with bread and wine.
The finale to our anniversary trip was the evening boat cruise down the Seine River. I researched for months on which cruise was the best and thought I had made up my mind. About one week before our trip, I found Canauxrama cruises based on a recommendation through the ever faithful Trip Advisor. I am so glad I did. It was simply wonderful. The boat was small and intimate, with tables and chairs rather than just rows and rows, and more rows of seats. The boat also had a bar serving beer, wine, and champagne. There was a live commentary that was both informative and humorous in French and English.
The sun was setting as we cruised past Notre Dame, casting a beautiful peach-colored hue across the sky. We passed under the many picturesque bridges of Paris, including the Pont Alexandre III, considered the most beautiful.

The Eiffel Tower’s lights began to dance as we floated by. It was the most magical anniversary, and it was only our third. I said to Michael “How are we ever going to top this one?”

Paris: Day 3

August 3, 2009

On this day we planned to tackle the Orangerie Museum and the Louvre, but first, we had our same omelet and café au lait breakfast at Café de l’Ecritoire. The Orangerie was a former storage space for orange trees of the Tuileries Garden. Monet painted wall-sized canvases of water lilies, scenes from his garden pond in Giverny, France. The canvases completely surround you as you sit in the middle of the room. I especially enjoyed the ones with clouds and trees within the reflection.

We passed through the Tuileries Garden on our way to the Louvre. There were several fountains and benches for relaxing. A mother duck and her three babies were entertaining to watch as they floated around in a pond.

We paused for a café outside of The Louvre before tackling the inside. We had our caffeine fix and sat back to take in the exterior - the pyramid and palace wings.

Once inside, it was a madhouse! I expected craziness but we were overwhelmed with the actual number of people. We hit the highlights including Mona. She was of course smaller than everyone expects, but we were prepared for this. It was still neat to actually see her in person. I really enjoyed the French Neoclassicism and French Romanticism. We’ve seen plenty of Italian medieval and renaissance art so these were new to us. Here are examples.

Neoclassicism:
La Grande Odalisque

The Coronation of Napoleon

Romanticism:

The Raft of the Medusa
Liberty Leading the People

About now I wished I had taken a formal art appreciation course in college, though I am gaining a better appreciation with live viewing and travel. Sometimes I wish I knew more background, history, technique, etc. while looking at all the masterpieces...


We had a quick lunch at a place that reminded me of Panera, but much better! Then we headed over to the Montmartre area to visit Sacré Cœur (Sacred Heart) Basilica. The church's exterior is made of gypsum, giving it a bright white glow. The church sits on the highest point in Paris and the views of the city are extraordinary!

A few streets away from the church we found Bohemia Montmartre at Place du Tertre. The square is lined with cafés and the center is filled with Parisian artists. We gawked at all the original art, circling the square several times, looking for that special souvenir piece. There were hundreds of Eiffel Towers, café and shop window scenes, Moulin Rouge and the infamous Chat Noir. We contemplated what to add to our collection, struck with “Analysis Paralysis”. We mulled over the Eiffel Towers for awhile but decided on a piece that had actually caught our eyes upon first stepping into the square. It’s unique and eclectic, of course, and it will go perfectly with our Phish Coventry poster. It doesn’t scream “WE WENT TO PARIS” but it will take us back to Montmartre and our anniversary trip. It's three fish outlined in black with swirly primary colors. Michael pointed out a rather sweet symbolism- the three fish represent the three years of our marriage. We paused to have some Rosé wine before leaving the Montmartre area and were serenaded by street musicians. We made our way back towards central Paris, passing by quaint houses and buildings including Van Gogh’s former home.

We ventured to the Marasis district for our official anniversary dinner at Chez Janou. The food was divine and the best we ate our entire time in Paris. We started with warm goat cheese served atop a chunky tomato sauce. Michael had cream risotto with scallops, drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction. I had a juicy tuna steak with a side of grilled veggie risotto with garlic. For dessert, we split a massive dish of crème brûlée, my absolute favorite dessert. It was simply heavenly and the perfect ending to our delicious anniversary dinner!

Paris: Day 2

August 2, 2009

Our day started off with the tastiest omelets paired with café au lait at Café de l’Ecritoire and then it was off for a morning at the Orsay and Rodin museums. On our way, we passed through Place St. Michel. It’s a historical square within the Latin Quarter and has been the site of many revolutions, citizens fighting against their oppressors. Thus, it was only appropriate to take Michael’s picture in Place St. Michel in front of the St. Michel statue.

The Orsay has a huge collection of Impressionist art that’s housed in a former train station. Think Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Van Gogh. I’ve always loved Degas’ s ballerinas, maybe because the same prints lined the walls of my childhood dance studio. Van Gogh’s collection was our favorite as hubby and I both gained a greater appreciation for his works after seeing them in person. The colors and brush strokes pop so much more.

The Rodin museum contains sculptures by Auguste Rodin and his student Camille Claudel. The building itself is a mansion where Rodin lived and worked, creating most of the pieces we saw. There is something special about when art is showcased within the space of its creation. I’ll call it a boost in my art appreciation. In addition to the mansion, there was a pleasant garden area. Rodin’s most famous work is The Thinker and he was displayed picturesquely among roses. After visiting Michaelango’s David in Florence, I gained a new liking for sculpture and this museum just increased it. Rodin’s biggest influence was actually Michaelango and it shows.

Between the museum hopping, hubby and I grabbed a “walking lunch” meaning we ordered baguette sandwiches and drinks from a window and ate while walking. I felt like a local-on-the-go or at the very least a cheap tourist with a go-go-go attitude.

After our morning of museums, we paused for reflection and beer on the Ile de la Cité before heading to visit Sainte-Chapelle and Notre Damé. To us, having a beer before visiting churches is always a good idea…

Photos can not relay the beauty of Sainte-Chapelle. The contrast of the exterior’s gray concrete with the interior’s colorful stained glass is unreal. The amount of stained glass is simply overwhelming. I can best describe it as being inside a kaleidoscope. The scenes in the panels are from the Bible and King Louis IX had Sainte-Chapelle built as a shrine to display the crown of thorns.

Notre Damé (Our Lady) is Paris’s iconic church and was built by its own people. It’s massive, covered with gargoyles, and has two distinct towers visible from other points in Paris. We happened to catch an ongoing Catholic mass and the wafting incense. Oh! Quick! Get the camera! Quasi Modo sighting…

We paused for a café and stumbled upon Shakespeare and Company Bookstore. It’s a famous shop, started by American Sylvia Beech, where writers such as Ernest Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Gertrude Stein, and James Joyce all came to borrow books and meet other aspiring writers. I found it super cozy with wall-to-ceiling books and a white shop cat. I bought two books which are set in Paris: A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway and Down and Out in Paris and London by George Orwell. A Moveable Feast describes the lifestyle of a struggling writer in Paris during the 1920’s and even makes a reference to the bookshop!

It was now dinner time and we found a family style place called Restaurant Polidor. It had long shared tables with a loud and lively atmosphere. Afterwards, we made our way back to Notre Dame for an evening climb to the top. There were 400 or so stairs that were narrow and spiraling. The view of Paris and the gargoyles made the trek totally worth it. We tried to wait at the top to catch the Eiffel Tower’s light show, but security began ushering us back down the stairs before it started. On the way down, we found a hidden window and once again witnessed the Towers dancing lights.

Paris: Day 1

August 1, 2009

We arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport shortly before noon after a very short and direct flight (1 hour, 20 minutes, yeah!). Then we took a train from the airport to the Hotel Design de la Sorbonne. On the way there, Hubby and I had an ‘I was just thinking that’ moment – that in every city the train rides between the airport and the center always look the same. The hotel was located on a quiet street, rue Victor Cousin, facing the Sorbonne University. We had a nice view from our room #42, but I forgot to take any pictures of the view or even the room itself…. (These sites Hotel Sorbonne and Trip Advisor have some nice ones.) I loved the way the room was decorated in a funky French style which made up for the super tight space. Our room had the smallest bathroom I’ve ever seen. Imagine a closet with a toilet, a tiny sink, and shower. I later discovered that shaving long legs was nearly impossible and flooding the floor was a given.

For lunch, we wandered around the corner from the hotel to Place de la Sorbonne, a lovely square in front of the university with cute cafes and gushing fountains. We had a fine seat at Café de l’Ecritoire facing the square. The weather was wonderful, with no humidity compared to Italy. After many months of anticipation, planning and research on my part, we were finally in Paris!




We visited the Cluny museum, The National Museum of the Middle Ages. The courtyard/entrance area was ornamented with seashells, indicating the building’s former use as a Roman bath. Inside, we saw the six wall-size Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries, five of them depicting one of the five senses. We saw the remains of a Roman frigidarium (cold room with pool) with 40-foot ceilings, the best preserved Roman interior room in Paris.






We found the stone heads from Notre-Dame. They have an interesting history… They were sculpted around 1220-1230 and were once upon the bodies of Judah’s Biblical kings adorning the Notre Dame. Revolutionaries thought they were the Kings of France and in 1793 beheaded the statues. The heads were buried in a backyard and not found until 1977, two centuries later! (adapted from Rick Steve's Paris 2009)





We then walked down Boulevard St. Germain past Napoleon’s Tomb to the Rue Cler area. Here, we perused the market scene and equipped ourselves with our dinner picnic: a crusty yet soft baguette, brie cheese, strawberries, and of course some French wine. We continued on to the most visited monument in the world…the Eiffel Tower. It’s cliché to say it’s breathtaking, but it really was, and I couldn’t take my eyes, or my camera, off of it. After some typical tourist gawking, we spread out our sheet in the grassy Champ de Mars Park, uncorked our wine, and munched with other locals throughout the evening, gazing up at the Tower. One neat thing that I noticed while we were picnicking was the prevalence of what I will call the “Potluck Picnic”. Parisians would arrive armed with a similar fare to ours – a blanket, a baguette, and wine. They would stake out their spot with a view and begin the socializing. Other friends would arrive, bringing dishes ranging from salads to cheese to meat-on-a-stick (insert Phish reference here – Time for the Meatstick!). They would join their group and the social circle would expand. It was a delightful glimpse into a typical Saturday evening with friends. I would love to do this with our circle of friends back home, though I’ll admit I’m a bit jealous of the Paris scenery.







After dinner, we walked closer to the Tower to check it out up close. Its size when viewed from far away, like from the park, was deceiving. It appeared so close, but we had to walk a little distance to actually reach it. We passed on climbing up, the lines were ridiculous! Instead, we found tasty crepes and camped out along the grass on the other side of the tower near Trocadero square. We waited out the sunset and then at 10pm, we were part of the audible “ahhhhs” from the hundreds of onlookers gazing up at the dancing lights.